Restaurant review: Vapiano
4401 Wilson Blvd.
Arlington, Va.
703-528-3113

Vapiano, a pizza/pasta/bar combo, recently opened its doors in Ballston. The capital region will boast three locations, the first group in North America for this German chain.

Vapiano is a hybrid fast-food joint with a lounge-like feel. Upon entering, you receive what appears to be a gift card (in fact, that's what it is in Europe, worth 50 euros) that records purchases. Swipe the card when ordering food or drink, then present the card as you leave to pay.

Food stations include pasta, salads, and a pizza/appetizer post. There is also a bar with a variety of drinks. Food is made-to-order, and the quality of ingredients generally high.

Spaghetti with Squid
From Jamie's Italy, Hyperion

Olive oil
1 bulb of fennel, finely chopped and herby tops reserved
2 clovers of garlic, peeled and finely sliced
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, crushed
1 large glass of crisp Italian white wine
1 fresh red chili, deseeded and finely sliced
4 baby squid, cleaned and cut into rings, tentacles left whole
1 lb. dried spaghetti or linguine
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
A small handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped
Zest of 1 lemon

Before you start, get all your ingredients prepped and ready to go.

Radicchio and Arugula Salad
From Jamie's Italy, Hyperion

Get yourself a large bowl and, for each person, toss together a handful of arugula with a small handful of Parmesan cheese and a quarter of a radicchio, finely sliced. Dress this with a glug of balsamic vinegar, three times as much extra virgin olive oil and a little salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mix carefully, grate over a little extra Parmesan, and eat straight away. You can vary it by adding things like toasted pine nuts, roasted red onions or crispy bacon.

Cookbook review: Jamie's Italy

By Tom Mentzer
Scripps Howard News Service
Dec. 25, 2006

A Brit teaching Americans how to cook traditional Italian food? Globalization at its best, or at least its tastiest.

Chef and general food entrepreneur Jamie Oliver, known as the Naked Chef to Food Network fans, recently released his sixth cookbook, "Jamie's Italy" (Hyperion, $34.95).

Restaurant review: Willow
4301 North Fairfax Dr.
Arlington, Va.
(703) 465-8800

Willow is a fantastic addition to Ballston, where fine dining and formal settings are a rare breed. The food is billed as French-Northern Italian, but chef Tracy O'Grady seems to enjoy ranging further afield. The bill of fare isn't deep, but small shifts in ingredients and dishes keep the solid core of the menu fresh.

Restaurant review: Galileo Grill
1110 21st St., N.W.
Washington, D.C.
202-293-7191
Web site

UPDATE: Galileo Grill is closed until September 2007, but his sandwiches are available at Bebo Trattoria in Crystal City.

Smug (n) - marked by excessive self-satisfaction

Or...the emotion you feel walking back to the office with a sandwich from Galileo Grill each time you pass some workaday schmo with his limp Subway sandwich baggie.

Restaurant review: Il Radicchio
1801 Clarendon Blvd.
Arlington, Va.
(703) 276-2627

Restaurants with gimmicks often flop, but the endless spaghetti paired with a variety of a la carte sauces at this little-known spot offer some tasty Italian food at a reasonable price.