Restaurant review: Willow
4301 North Fairfax Dr.
Arlington, Va.
(703) 465-8800

Willow is a fantastic addition to Ballston, where fine dining and formal settings are a rare breed. The food is billed as French-Northern Italian, but chef Tracy O'Grady seems to enjoy ranging further afield. The bill of fare isn't deep, but small shifts in ingredients and dishes keep the solid core of the menu fresh.

The largest choice comes early in the meal. A small handful of soups and salads help keep the offerings fresh, and all have been delicious. Any chowder is worth a go. For salads, the "chopped" Caesar was a regular, delicious primarily for the delightful white anchovy perched atop. A selection of flatbreads work well as a shared appetizer or a light meal.

A delicious jumbo lump crab cake is the most expensive starter at $14. The kitchen takes some liberty with "jumbo," but perfectly balanced flavors compensate. The cake, glazed with a piquant mustard-based sauce, is sandwiched between two potato crisps and floats on a bed of expertly blanched cabbage and zucchini. It verges on too much, but never crosses the line.

The treatment of humble vegetables is one of the pleasures of Willow. Beyond the crab cake components, side dishes are also consistently excellent. A gratin of cauliflower drew rave reviews from a decidedly anti-cauliflower crowd, and even Brussels sprouts were mouth-watering.

The entree list offers fewer choices, but almost all are successful. O'Grady again works magic without exotic ingredients. One consistent winner is the crusted pork chop, routinely cooked to a perfect medium rare. The pairing of caramelized onions and a wonderful spinach tart, an update on steakhouse creamed spinach, work perfectly. The cast-iron roasted ribeye was cooked to order, and paired well with sautéed mushrooms. Its partner, the cast-iron filet, tops the price list at $32.

Kate Jansen, the pastry chef and co-founder of Firehook Bakeries, displays far more care for end-of-meal treats than many competitors.

"Kate's Cookies with Ice Cream" may not leave much to the imagination, but cookies and cream are both absolutely delicious. The desserts are seasonal; a pumpkin offering in the fall still echoes on the palate today, while summer offerings include berry crisps and citrus tarts.

Two peculiar flops: an early pairing of a halibut filet with an olive tapenade was jarring, especially considering O'Grady's fish-dishing creds while serving at Kinkead's. And the bread service has never really gotten up to speed, again shocking considering Jansen's bakery background.

The wine list is solid, with a dozen or so selections by the glass and a spread of bottles for just about every budget. The list tends to shy away from the bland, offering a nice assortment of grapes and regions. The bar is perfect for Ballston with a handful of tables and generally smooth service. One perk for the casually dressed or single diners: the bar offers full dinner service and is non-smoking. Patio tables are available in fair weather.

Bottom line: The hits greatly outnumber the misses; classy Willow fills a gaping hole in booming Ballston.