Restaurant review: Sala Siam
3813 Lee Highway
Arlington, Va.
(703) 528-5833

Formerly dubbed Supee's Kitchen, this true hole-in-the-wall serves some of the best Thai in the D.C. area, but the atmosphere leaves a lot to be desired.

For the first course, head straight for the cold appetizers. The spicy bean thread (yum woon sen in Thai) packs a punch, but it primes the taste buds. Larb gai, a ground chicken dish, is some of the best around. And Supee's offers the only iceberg house salad I will ever promote; the dressing is to die for.

The curries are simple and delicious, especially green. For the meat dishes, try the chicken with chili paste, not as spicy as it sounds. Pad Thai, that old standby, can be more subtle than some competitors, but it depends on who is manning the stove. Avoid the uninspired rice dishes.

Many Thai restaurants are too free with the sugar bowl, hoping to please Western palates, and Supee's can slip up on occasion. The penang curry and roast duck are both sticky sweet. But when the kitchen is on, it's really on. Just don't expect the flavors to be toned down for Western tastes.

Bottom line: It's not so easy on the eyes, but the food holds true to many traditional Thai flavors. A gem in an increasingly crowded field.