Restaurant review: EatBar
2761 Washington Boulevard
Arlington, Va.
703-778-5051

By Jerry Munk

The name comes from the decades-old neon “EAT” sign that hangs over what used to be Tallula’s front bar and Whitey’s before that. EatBar claims to be the New World cousin of English gastropubs – places where one can get a good pint and good, locally produced food, prepared with care. EatBar is all that and at a price more appropriate for a weeknight than its upscale neighbor.

Chef Nathan Anda makes some exceptional house cured meats, including a tasty “country terrine” of pork. Many months ago Anda had experimented with house cured pork belly (where bacon comes from), which was as fleeting as it was amazing. Thankfully it has returned, at least occasionally, as one of the rotating meat dishes in the entrée section of the menu. EatBar, generally, pays special attention to meats - organic, natural and local.

Onion rings were perfectly seasoned and crispy, which is rare for such a seemingly simple dish. The surprise on the menu is the house-made hot dog. About the same price as the franken-meat you get at the ballpark, this one is handmade, and accompanied with made-from-scratch catsup and mustard. The chestnut soup was smooth and rich, but would have arguably been even better without the duck confit that floated on top. Try the Scotch egg. If you don’t know what it is, I won’t spoil the surprise. It is virtually a meal in itself.

On a Sunday night, the oysters were fresh but seemed to have been shucked a bit in advance, as evidenced by the suspiciously melting bed of ice on which they were served. The hangar steak, while natural, was a bit ho-hum within the context of the rest of the menu. Service was friendly and knowledgeable, if a little inattentive, and at times simply absent.

Many nights will feature various special events: movies, tasting dinners, cigar night, etc. Sunday night is “movie night.” The Big Lebowski was playing on a big-screen when we went; one of my favorites, but not for the kiddies …but it is a bar, after all. Smarter, though, than the average bar.