Restaurant review: Bobby Van's Steakhouse
809 15th St. NW
Washington, D.C.
(202) 589-0060
Web site

This manly bastion of wood panels and leather, steps from the White House, offers the typical Washington "power" dining experience: decent steaks, crappy service.

Two shining lights: the best fried calamari in the city and an oddly addictive salad of green beans, chopped shrimp, bacon and tomatoes in a vinaigrette. Combine the two for a thoroughly delightful lunch.

As for the cow, the porterhouse is often a well-aged winner. Last time ordered, it was available only for multiple diners, but cloudy memories seem to recall single portions at a more recent visit. The cajun-spiced ribeye is another option; this tender slab successfully reunited me with the ribeye cut some years back.

When DC Dishes cashes out for millions and can look like the loudmouth suits who DO get swell service, we shall return. Until then, a pox on their beef.

Bottom line: Not worth the headache; if you must, opt for lunch.