Restaurant review: Greek Deli
1120 19th St., N.W.
Washington, D.C.
202-296-2111

By Pete Daniledes

As you approach the Greek Deli, the first thing you notice is the line, often stretching across the sidewalk to the curb. But take heart: the few extra minutes is a wise investment when the return is a large, made-that-day portion of quality Greek food from this takeout-only establishment.

As you inch closer, you'll hear the owner and chef, known as Kosta to the regulars, shout "Next on the line!" in an attempt to keep things moving. It might sound like Seinfeld's "Soup Nazi," but get closer still and you'll see Kosta smiling and joking with everyone.

The standard menu offers no surprises. Traditional Greek offerings fill most of the double-sided menu posted on the back wall, one side listing sandwiches, the other entrees. Entrees come with a side salad, vegetable (usually green beans cooked Greek-style) and orzo. The orzo is the one truly disappointing item to be had; instead, substitute with the spanakorizo, a kicked-up version of the regular orzo with spinach and small chunks of tomato and onion.

Daily specials are also available. They're not always Greek, but that doesn't diminish the quality a bit. Monday is chili; Tuesday, roast pork in a white-wine based sauce; Wednesday, large meatballs in a creamy white wine sauce reminiscent of traditional Greek meatball soup (Youvarlakia Avgolemono to the initiated); Thursday, meatloaf; and Friday, baked salmon topped with feta cheese and a dill sauce.

It's hard to go wrong with any of the Greek Deli's offerings, but a safe bet is the gyro, one of the best we've found in the metro area. A word of caution: some of the entrees tend to be too oily. The moussaka seems to be particularly susceptible to this, along with the chicken dishes and the pork and salmon specials.

You may have to experiment with your timing to avoid lines, but be sure to give it a try because, as Kosta will say if you ask what's good: "Everything is good, my friend."

Bottom line: A great downtown hole-in-the-wall serving up delicious food.