Cookbook review: Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking From the Heart of Mexico

By Tom Mentzer
Scripps Howard News Service
July 16, 2007

Americans may be divided on the politics of immigration with its Southern neighbor, but there seems no arguing that Mexicans make some pretty tasty food. Restaurants are popping up all over that show off authentic south-of-the-border cuisine at its best.

It wasn't long ago that "Mexican" food meant a plate of enchiladas with some bland rice and tepid beans. Now, Mexican cuisine in the United States is experiencing a renaissance thanks to some passionate chefs and an appreciative public.

Among the pioneers who brought true Mexican food to the United States was Rick Bayless. His first cookbook, a product of living six years in Mexico, is now 20 years old and can be difficult to locate. Luckily it has been re-released, and it's a must-have: Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking From the Heart of Mexico (Morrow Cookbooks, $30).

The book is an amazing compendium of all things Mexican, and it's just as important today as it was two decades ago.

Think of Bayless as the Julia Child of Mexican food, translating a foreign cuisine for the American kitchen. The book covers preparations from around the country and doesn't cut any corners. His mole poblano, for instance, takes six hours to cook (half of which is hands-on) and calls for two dozen ingredients.

But that's not to say the recipes are overly difficult. When an ingredient may be hard to find, Bayless suggests a substitution. And even the most involved instructions, while sometimes time-consuming, are not beyond the reach of most cooks.

The passion and excitement that Bayless offers on his PBS show also appear in his writing. His tales of learning from native cooks can be quite inspiring, though even Bayless balks at digging a barbecue pit in his backyard.

Bayless also tries to keep the book as authentic as possible, though he does give in occasionally. Introducing his recipe for crisp-fried tortillas, Bayless admits he included this preparation for the "exigencies of the North American audience."

Aside from a few good-natured jabs, the book is a wonderful reference. From soups, egg preparations and proper tamales (showing off the casing rather than the filling) to entrees, desserts and a wide variety of Mexican drinks, there's something for everyone.

One more reason to pick up the book: his Cook's Notes are the best I've ever seen. Bayless uses the margins with brilliant results, explaining technique and equipment; suggesting tips on timing and advance preparation; and offering traditional and contemporary preparations. The book is a culinary encyclopedia.

Sure, a recipe may call for a half-dozen types of dried chiles, but between local ethnic groceries and the Internet, finding ingredients today is a piece of cake compared to the days when the book was first released.

Bayless has written several books since Authentic Mexican first hit the shelves, but none offer such a fine balance between being comprehensive and approachable as his first effort. It's a good fit for any kitchen and is guaranteed to be useful another 20 years from now.

(Tom Mentzer is a freelance writer. Contact him at tom.mentzer@gmail.com.)