Restaurant review: Hunan Gate
4233 N. Fairfax Dr.
Arlington, Va.
703-243-5678

Takeout Chinese is often hit-or-miss, and too often different restaurants churn out food tasting exactly the same. But if you’re careful with the menu, most takeout joints will have a few dishes better than the rest.

Chinese restaurants have Chinese cooks, many of whom aren’t long from that country. It makes sense that dishes from their home province will be pretty tasty. You just have to find them.

Hunan Gate in Ballston, across the street from the Metro station, is a prime example. Sure, they have the General, the Beef and Broccoli, the wretched eggrolls. But buried in a pretty decent menu are some above-average dishes, most from the Szechuan province.

The best example is Szechuan Beef. There are two versions, one the typical American-style version, the other called Special Szechuan Style Beef in the Chef’s Specialties section. It’s the latter that is excellent, made with Szechuan peppercorns that leave the tongue a little numb. Only once has the dish disappointed, and that time it was loaded with peppercorns and I couldn't feel my tongue for hours.

Their Szechuan shrimp is also good, though not for everyone. It’s sauce is a delicate sweet and sour, delicious over rice. Other above-average dishes include Kung Pao Chicken (cooked properly, not overly sweet), Chow Fun fried rice and Singapore Noodles (not too oily).

The sweet and spicy cabbage appetizer is also good, and their roasted pork appetizer makes for some great fried rice with any leftover steamed rice on hand. Hunan Gate is definitely above average for Chinese takeout.