Restaurant review: Layalina
5216 Wilson Blvd.
Arlington, Va.
703-525-1170
Web site

Layalina is the perfect example of a neighborhood restaurant done right. The service is gracious, atmosphere warm and food delicious.

Lebanese fare hits many of the trendy notes now in vogue, with its large selection of small plates and exotic ingredients such as pomegranate seeds. But this established restaurant is no flash in the pan and definitely worth the trip.

The menu opens with several dozen small plates, or mazza, both meat and vegetarian. Familiar favorites are represented, with baba ghanoush, stuffed grape leaves and several variations of hummus topping the list. But browse a little deeper and you'll find some hidden gems.

Try the mouth-watering muhammarah, a puree of red peppers and walnuts. As with most dishes, pomegranate seeds are sprinkled on top, which offer a nice contrast in texture. A basket of thin pita wedges arrives gratis, perfect vessels for the dips but not particularly tasty on their own.

While the small plates could easily make a full meal--in fact, the menu offers a few combination options with that in mind--the entrees are just as enticing. Shawarma is found in most Middle Eastern restaurants, and Layalina does a good job with this old standby. But like ]the front of the menu, a little experimenting will serve you well.

Try a variation of the kafta, a spiced, grilled ground beef. One version is served with a refreshing salad, another texture and flavor success. Some of the specialties tend toward soupy sauces, but all are delicious. And the specials are also worth a listen, in particular a meat-stuffed pastry shell.

Vegetarian entrees are available, but most are just appetizers writ large. A better option is to choose several of the vegetarian small plates and one of the several salads. The wine list is a little disappointing, but a Lebanese offering, by bottle and glass, offers a tasty curiosity. The restaurant is closed Mondays.

Bottom line: Small plates and entrees cooked and served with care in an inviting environment.